Togo

Narrow, quiet and one of the least visited countries in West Africa

Togo is a narrow strip running from a short Atlantic coastline to the Sahel, only about 110 kilometres wide at its widest. It is one of the least visited countries in West Africa, which means very little infrastructure aimed at tourists and correspondingly little hassle.

Lome, the capital, has a long beach and the Akodessewa fetish market, which is the largest of its kind in the world and sells the animal parts, skulls and preparations used in traditional Vodun practice. It is confronting and it is entirely genuine rather than staged for visitors.

The north holds Koutammakou, a UNESCO-listed landscape of takienta, fortified tower-houses built of mud with granaries on top, still lived in by the Batammariba. It is one of the most striking vernacular architectures in Africa. Between the two, the Kpalime area has waterfalls, forested hills and a butterfly population that draws specialists.

Annual events and festivals

• Evala (Jul) — a Kabye initiation festival in the north built around traditional wrestling.
• Epe Ekpe (Sep) — the Guin new year at Glidji, where a sacred stone colour predicts the year ahead.
• Independence Day (27 Apr) — marks 1960 independence from France.
• Ayiza and yam festivals (Aug-Sep) — harvest celebrations across several communities.
• Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha (varies) — public holidays for the Muslim population.
• Gadao-Adossa (Feb) — a knife dance festival among the Tem people.
• Dzawuwu-Za (Aug) — an Ewe harvest festival.
• Christmas (Dec) — widely marked in the Christian south.
• Kpalime arts and craft events (varies) — a centre for batik and woodcarving.
• Lome beach festivals (Dec-Jan) — music and markets along the coast.