Nepal

Altitude is the real risk, not the trail. Ascend slowly

Nepal has eight of the world fourteen mountains over 8,000 metres, including Everest, and most people come for exactly that reason. What surprises them is that trekking here is far more accessible than expected, largely because of the teahouse system: you walk between villages and sleep in guesthouses rather than carrying a tent and a fortnight of food.

The Annapurna and Everest regions do most of the traffic and both have become considerably busier and more developed. Manaslu, Langtang and the Kanchenjunga area are quieter. Whichever route you choose, altitude sickness is the genuine danger and it has nothing to do with fitness. Fit young people get it. The only reliable defence is going up slowly and being willing to turn back.

There is also a Nepal that has nothing to do with mountains. Kathmandu valley has three former royal cities with UNESCO-listed durbar squares, much of it painstakingly rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake. Chitwan in the lowlands has rhinos, tigers and elephants. Lumbini is the birthplace of the Buddha.

Annual events and festivals

• Losar (Feb-Mar) — Tibetan New Year, celebrated in the Buddhist highlands and Kathmandu monasteries.
• Holi (Mar) — the colour festival, marked with enthusiasm in Kathmandu and the lowlands.
• Bisket Jatra, Bhaktapur (Apr) — Nepali New Year, with a chariot tug of war between city halves.
• Buddha Jayanti (May) — the Buddha birthday, biggest at Lumbini and Swayambhunath.
• Rato Machhindranath (Apr-Jun) — the longest chariot festival in the country, in Patan.
• Gai Jatra (Aug) — a festival of cows and satire, honouring those who died that year.
• Indra Jatra (Sep) — masked dances in Kathmandu Durbar Square and the appearance of the living goddess.
• Dashain (Sep-Oct) — the biggest festival of the year. Fifteen days, family reunions and the country effectively closing.
• Tihar (Oct-Nov) — the festival of lights, with days dedicated to crows, dogs, cows and brothers.
• Mani Rimdu, Tengboche (Oct-Nov) — masked dances at a monastery under Everest.