Costa Rica

Pura vida is a greeting, a goodbye and an entire national attitude

Costa Rica holds around five percent of the world biodiversity on about a third of a percent of its land area, and it protects more than a quarter of its territory. It abolished its army in 1948 and put the money into education and healthcare, which is the sort of decision that shapes a country for generations.

It is the easiest introduction to Central America by a wide margin, with good roads by regional standards, a well developed ecotourism industry and a very high standard of guiding. That comes at a price: Costa Rica is noticeably more expensive than its neighbours, and the popular spots in Manuel Antonio and Tamarindo can feel heavily packaged.

The wildlife is the reason to accept that. Corcovado on the Osa peninsula is described by National Geographic as the most biologically intense place on earth. Monteverde has cloud forest and a canopy walkway. Tortuguero has nesting turtles. Arenal has a volcano and hot springs. Sloths, toucans and four species of monkey are routine rather than lucky sightings.

Annual events and festivals

• Fiestas de Palmares (Jan) — two weeks of concerts, bullfights and carnival in a small town, drawing enormous crowds.
• Semana Santa (Mar-Apr) — Holy Week. The country largely shuts, beaches fill and alcohol sales are restricted on some days.
• Dia de Juan Santamaria (11 Apr) — honours the national hero, with parades in Alajuela.
• Fiestas de Zapote (Dec-Jan) — the big end of year fair in San Jose, with Costa Rican bullfighting where the bull is not harmed.
• Independence Day (15 Sep) — a freedom torch is relayed from Guatemala, and lantern parades are held the night before.
• Dia de la Raza (12 Oct) — Limon Carnival on the Caribbean coast, with strong Afro-Caribbean influence.
• Envision Festival (Feb-Mar) — a music and wellness festival on the Pacific coast at Uvita.
• Oxcart Parade, San Antonio de Escazu (Mar) — painted oxcarts, a UNESCO-recognised craft tradition.
• Virgen de los Angeles (2 Aug) — a national pilgrimage on foot to the basilica at Cartago.
• Turtle nesting seasons (Jul-Oct and Nov-Feb) — arribadas at Ostional can bring tens of thousands of turtles ashore at once.